Do I Want to Be a Mountaineer (Part 2)

The journey from HMI (7,000 ft) to Yuksom (5,800 ft) took us through scenes of fluctuating scenery. Again, the trip felt like a roller-coaster, with rocky roads that seemed to go on endlessly. After crossing the Teesta River, the scenery changed as we said goodbye to West Bengal and entered Sikkim. The roads were under construction, and hence there were halts of about 15–30 minutes here and there. The journey of around 90 km took six hours, excluding an hour's stop for a snack.

Fluttering prayer flags welcomed us to the peaceful mountain kingdom.

Arrival at Yuksom

From lunch onward, we were free to explore the area. Yuksom carries great historical significance, for its very name means "the meeting place of three lamas." According to legend, three lamas journeyed a long way to meet here and set up a monastery that still stands today. The local office of Tourism is worth a look; to me, it functions as a kind of mini-museum displaying Sikkim's flora and fauna, its mountain ranges, and an introduction to Buddhist philosophy.

I felt that Sikkim was one of the greenest states in the country. It banned plastic as early as 1998, with subsequent bans on packaged drinking water, Styrofoam, and thermocol disposables. Waste gets segregated very carefully: It's not just wet and dry, but dry waste is further divided into plastic, paper, metal, and glass. 

Travel-ready and eco-conscious.

Packing the Essentials

Going from the dressing room, we would bring down all our institute equipment, and then we had clothes to dress in and food to eat, all packed into a single backpack! Every extra kilo feels tenfold on an uphill trek. Learned that one should take only what they really need.

HMI Base Camp, at 14,600 ft, lay ahead, reached stepwise in four days. This route was along part of the famous Goecha La trek.

Day 1: Yuksom to Tshoka (10,000 ft)

We trekked 22 km, and it took us roughly 7 hours, including the crossing of 4 suspension bridges over fiercely flowing mountain rivers. The sound of the water grew in intensity with each new bridge we approached, which was especially important. 

The real challenge came next. The relentless steep ascent with a 15 kg backpack. My upper arms throbbed with pain. Seeing the Sherpas sprint up the trail made me respect them a hundredfold. There was no room for complaints, only forward. 

The last 2 km felt like a really bad dream that went on forever. We finally made it to camp, and I felt like a zombie. Our welcome drink of hot chai was heavenly, and I still dream about it. Even though I was spent, I went through my personal sock changing, moisturizing, and talc foot hygiene, as well as light stretch rituals to keep the body going fothe r next day. 

If that was not enough, we sat back and relaxed with friends afterwards, which I fully recommend.

Day 2: Acclimatization Walk

Mountaineering is a true test of not just physical endurance but also mental grit. Thanks to my sister’s encouragement—she completed her BMC from NIM back in 2004—I had been training hard, and it was definitely paying off.

Our schedule was pretty straightforward: dinner at 6 p.m., tucked into our sleeping bags by 7, lights out by 8, and morning tea served bright and early at 5:30 a.m. By 6:45, we were back on the trail.

Style meets sustainability. This women’s winter jacket from Kosha keeps you warm on your winter expeditions.

Day 2 was all about acclimatization, where we aimed to gain about 1,000 feet before heading back to camp—following the golden rule of “walk high, sleep low.” The trail was absolutely stunning, with rhododendron trees bursting into bloom all around us. I found myself wanting to stop every few meters to snap photos, but the beauty of the moment reminded me to stay present and just keep moving.

That night, I encountered a classic mountaineer’s challenge: the bathroom situation. Armed with just a headlamp, a bottle of water, and some soap, I was introduced to the notorious “pit.” My city-bred nerves had to adjust quickly. Let’s just say it was the fastest download I’ve ever experienced!

Day 3: Tshoka to Dzongri (13,200 ft)

We climbed 3,000 ft in about five hours—a real test of our stamina and determination. The first part of the trail was pretty easygoing, but before long, it turned into a steep, seemingly never-ending spiral. My trekking buddy Madhu and I kept each other motivated: 50 steps, pause, breathe, and then do it all over again.

As we ascended, the scenery transformed dramatically. The towering trees gradually gave way to shrubs, and Dzongri signaled the beginning of the snowline—beyond this point, snow would be our constant companion. Surrounded by thick forests, I often felt like I was in a sacred space, lucky to experience nature in its most unspoiled form.

In the afternoon, we pushed on another 1,000 ft to reach Dzongri Top. Just as we arrived, snowflakes began to fall—as if nature was joining in our celebration. It was our first snowfall of the trek, and we couldn’t help but throw a little snow party. The way down, though, was a different story. The snow-covered trail required careful steps—digging in with my heels, moving sideways, and never lingering too long. As I fought to keep my balance, I found myself pondering once again: Do I really want to climb mountains?

Day 4: Dzongri to 14,600-foot HMI Base Camp

The last push. The distance—27 km—made this the longest and most difficult stretch yet, even though the altitude gain was only roughly 1,600 feet. We trekked for eight hours through a variety of landscapes, including flatlands, rocky boulders, green valleys, and finally, snow-covered paths.

Snowfall on the way made some of us stop. Students from the Advanced Mountaineering Course came down to assist with carrying our loads by the final 3 km. Even though I declined their assistance, I later regretted not doing so because it would have improved the enjoyment of the final stretch.

Let Kosha be your friend in this weather.

Finally, Base Camp. I felt a rush of relief, pride, and happiness.

Chowrikhang: An Independent World

At 14,600 feet, the HMI Base Camp at Chowrikhang is a community of tents, stone rooms, and tin huts encircled by tall peaks. With the mist playing hide-and-seek, the evening sun creating halos, and the blue ice gleaming on mountaintops, the scenery changed all the time. It was a completely different world.

Arriving here signaled the conclusion of Phase 2 of the course, but it also signaled the start of the true challenge that lay ahead. I was still unsure if I wanted to be a mountaineer as I acclimatized to my tin hut lodging with a range of emotions, including awe, anxiety, and excitement.

Read Part 3 to find out what transpired at Base Camp next.

Training Advice for BMC Readiness

1. Develop the endurance to run 5 km uphill continuously in 40–50 minutes.
2. Start with ten floors and work your way up to sixty. Step at random and jump two or three at once.
3. Weight training should begin at least two months beforehand. Every two weeks, gradually increase from 2 kg to 10 kg.
4. To increase your strength, flexibility, and endurance, vary your workouts. You can't always prepare for the movements required for mountaineering, such as jumping off rocks, scaling vertical walls, and maintaining your balance on your toes. Prepare your body for unexpected events.
5. Get enough sleep, drink plenty of water, and eat healthily.