It was a bright day. As I made my way to the Shikara to cross through Nagin Lake to my houseboat, I remember thinking, ‘what makes me come back to you after only 4 days of separation, Srinagar?’ It was the beginning of a love affair. One that continues to live with me till date.

The sun glistened through the lake’s surface and in reverie I spoke with the lotuses, which synchronised themselves to the sound of the water pushed back by the paddle. I was more curious than relaxed and turned around to start a conversation with the man who was taking me across. Nagin Lake, the lesser popular of its bigger sibling Dal Lake was a perfect place for me to stay. The houseboat overlooked the high contoured mountains and it was far away from noise and crowd.

As the evening light made its way, I spent my first day unwinding with a book and a cup of light Kashmiri kahwa. It seemed like a sun down out of Begum Akhtar’s insatiable poetry, where I hoped it would stay and yet move on to show me the other side of its beauty. And as it unwrapped itself to me, I played hide and seek with the colours of the twilight sky.

There is but an aspect of this beautiful valley that overpowers all senses- its proximity to nature through its waterways, the blossoming gardens and the high mountains hugging it. At every moment in Srinagar, I found myself creating beautiful memories in various elements of nature. Whether it was touching a Chinar leaf or walking around the well-planned but colourful Shalimar Bagh, I remember gawking at the Zabarwan Mountains as the tall trees gave me shade and panning through the horizon of wind swept Pari Mahal. And the light breeze passed through me as if whispering sweet nothings. Amidst all the restrictions and conflicts that surround this serene city, it seems like an irresistible idea to see how it has only made it so inviting and interesting as a destination amongst many.

The prominent Dal Lake felt like the only outcast in the valley. Bustling with too many houseboats and a crowd of men inviting me for shikara ride, the interruptions felt like a stark contrast to the spectacular colours of nature of the lake. I flee a top to the historical Shankaracharya Temple and enjoy some calm moments and the vantage point, far away from the congested streets leading to the lake. And from there I saw the lake turning golden orange and the mystical ladies of Kashmir kayak. Kashmiri women harbour ambitions of taking part in this sport and it is here that I realised how this lake has been home to many dreams.

Food in Kashmir is unlike the sweet language of the people. With their bright eyes and their pleasant words, when they served the very spicy curries, I found myself laughing with them upon my reaction to the spice! They tell you stories of the ancestors and how zaffran is Kohinoor of the Kashmiri cuisine. I still remember the everlasting taste of the light golden-orange threads.

Through the silence of the night, as the houseboat lulled me to sleep, I found myself wondering and enchanted. What makes Kashmir such a beautiful dream? I have asked myself this time and again; without any satisfying answers. Perhaps, some things cannot be questioned and perhaps, falling out of love rarely seems like an option.

Good to know:
Srinagar Airport seems a high level of security checks. It is recommended to keep at least 3 hours in hand before your departure. The airport on arrival has no such formalities.

Even though Srinagar is a safe place, certain caution needs to be exercised as you would in other places in India. Don’t wander around late into the night, don’t hurt any religious sentiments and please dress appropriately and get to know the locals’ way of life to blend in.

Good time to go:
Through the year though from May to September seems more desirable for most travellers. October and March are special months to see the season change.

Good things to keep:
Take good walking shoes and keep yourself warm with Kosha’s waterproof jackets or woollen overcoat. If you are travelling during the winter months, you will need a woollen base layer, fleece nightwear and undoubtedly, warm socks. Choose from Kosha’s collection here.

Amrita Das:
Amrita is a freelance travel writer and a full-time travel blogger at Travelling Ides of March. She is a solo traveller and practices sustainability.

She has travelled across twenty states in India and has briefly explored Nepal, Switzerland, Italy, Singapore, Indonesia and Paris. She tweets at @Amrita_Dass and shares regular photo stories through her Facebook page.

This is the first in the three-part series of Wanderings in the Hills with Amrita.

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